Tuesday, December 12, 2017

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 07 Dec 17 Transom Cap

07 Dec 17:

Took some of the clamps and plastic off of the new teansom cap, it looks great and is ready for sanding and final fitting. Skipper suggested we keep the clamps on until it is attached to prevent springback as it finishes drying. The fir plywood already had a curve to it but the cumaru teak strips did not, so they might try to straighten out a bit when unclamped.


Tuesday, December 5, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 05 Dec 17

05 Dec 17:

VICTORY enjoyed camping out on the work deck, under cover of a tarp. Much better than uncovered under a tree.

Part of the transom cap flange was gone, probably damaged when the original cap was removed years ago. Those holes in the flange are for screws to hold the cap in place. In this photo we have smoothed and beveled out the fiberglass around the repair area with 60 grit on a dual action sander to get a nice clean surface for epoxy and glass. Multiple layers of 4 oz fiberglass strips were used to fill the void, wet with TotalBoat High Performance epoxy and THIXO.

Multiple layers of 4 oz fiberglass strips were used to rebuild the transom cap flange, wet with TotalBoat High Performance epoxy and THIXO. Another strip wrapped the adjacent edges of the flange, then plastic sheet was applied to isolate the epoxy, wood strips to hold the repair to shape the patch and finally clamps to hold the patch while the epoxy dried. We also filled the old screw holes and splits in the gunwale with THIXO. In other news the planer in the background was used to plane a piece of teak down to 1/4 inch, to be the top layer on the new cap.

Traced the aft curve of the transom cap with a sharpie while the plywood help in place on the boat, then used the old cap to get the fore-aft measurement. Cut the curve with a DeWALT jigsaw.

Sanded the aft end and sides of the cap to match the transom curve with 60 grit on a belt sander.

Once the aft curve was defined and faired we used a combination square to move a line forward 8 inches to get the leading edge curve. Also marked the approximate location of the mizzen mast partner.

The new transom cap will be 3/4 inches thick, two 1/4 inch layers of fir plywood and a top layer of teak. The teak cap had to be cut from two pieces because the widest stock we could get was 5 1/2 inches wide, and the cap measures almost 8 inches from forward edge to t aft edge.

Transom cap layers epoxied together with TotalBoat THIXO, clamped to the boat to form the matching curve.

There's a Drascombe Dabber transom cap under there somewhere, two 1/4 inch layers of marine grade fir plywood capped with a top layer of cumaru teak. Glued together with TotalBoat THIXO. I had to piece together the teak, those fore and aft strips are clamping down the seam between the two pieces, with plastic sheet underneath the clamp strips to keep the from becoming part of the boat.

Cut pieces of teak for a new forward seat and edge glued them with TotalBoat THIXO. The seat is removable and is placed just forward of the centerboard to be a rowing station.

VICTORY liked sleeping on the work deck that she asked to bunk inside with ZIP and WINNIE, while it was raining outside.


Season's Greetings from SBR

Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Boat: Penobscot 14 ST. JACQUES
Photographer: The Skipper

Monday, December 4, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 04 Dec 17 Tilt Trailer

04 Dec 17:

Bottom repairs are finished and trailer is back from rehab, loaded the 550 pound boat with ease.

New tilt latch and safety chain.

The boat is balanced great, just need to adjust the keel rollers.

Went to buy a piece of 1/4 inch marine grade fir plywood to laminate a new transom cap. The first piece they pulled was cupped and they were going to put it aside. I told them it looked perfect for what we needed and sure enough it has a perfect curve to match the transom top.

The boat and trailer have not needed chocks for a long time.

Complete log of VICTORY.

Saturday, December 2, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 02 Dec 17 Trailer, Paint and Outboard Mount

02 Dec 17:

Tongue was a little bent! Eddie English and crew got the trailer road ready again, added 6 inches to the new tongue, put on new 2 inch coupler with safety chains, bow stop with winch, bow roller, tilt latch and bolt, axle, springs, u bolts, Posi-lube hubs, new bunks with brackets and carpet, and wigher weight capacity 5.70 x 8 inch tires. All hot dipped galvanized or stainless, basically a new trailer for several hundre less than the cost of new. Eddie's crew also got the new lights that I put on working, I learned that tilt trailers sometimes need a jumper ground wire to best ground the tongue to the main frame. Otherwise the ground tries to go through the rusty tilt bolt.

Sanded the keel rub strip with 60 grit on the belt sander then 120 on the random orbital sander.

Second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice rolled and tipped. I rolled with a Might Mini foam roller and frame from Jamestown Distributors, they sell a nice foam roller kit that includes the 4" roller frame, solvent-resistant plastic tray, two 4" Mighty Mini foam covers, and disposable gloves for $4.77 USD. The Skipper is an awesome painter and she tipped with a 2 inch chip brush, did a great job. the air temperature was 74F, we thinned the paint 5 percent with brushing thinner because the roller was dragging a bit. For thinner, it is best to use the manufacturer's recommended thinner.

Took out the rotted outboard mount.

Two of the nuts on the back of the outboard recess that hold the bolts on the starboard side were easy to reach through the cuddy, they came off easy with a wrench holding the nut. The nuts on the port side are inaccessible and we kept out fingers crossed removing them, because if the backer nuts fall off then an inspection port might be needed to refasten the mount. The bolt on the top was frozen and it snapped, the bolt on the bottom came out easily and the nut stayed in position, yay. We had read about the port side nuts, so we were prepared. One part of the article mentioned that some Dabbers had 2 port side nuts, some only had one, so we will go with one port side nut for the new mount pad. If we notice any movement we'll look at different options to add another fastener.

We cut a new outboard mount from cumaru. The old mount was 1 1/4 inches thick, we didn't have teak that thick so I planed a 3/4 inch thick piece down to 1/2 inch on the DeWALT compact planer and fastened the two pieces together with silicone bronze screws. Used the old mount to get the port side bolt location, but the starboard side of the old mount was too rotten to use as a pattern, So we put the starboard side bolts in position with a dab of paint on each head, lined up the port side bolt and pressed the backside of the mount against the bolt heads. That left a paint mark on the back of the mount and we drilled the bolt holes using the paint as a reference. We went up one drill size for the bolt holes to allow for alignment slop.

The new mount pad is trimmed a bit on the lower aft corners to fit the rounded bottom of the outboard well, we used a belt sander for that with a 60 grit belt. Then the pad was fastened with marine stainless bolts, washers and stop nuts.

The centreplate!


Drascombe Dabber and Lugger Floorboards

We have had to make floor boards, aka deck boards, aka cockpit sole for our Lugger and Dabber. Our boats have slatted boards, meaning there is a 1/4 inch gap between each plank. We prefer that design so that air can circulate through the bilge and we can see water if we spring a leak. They are also pretty easy to remove.

Here is the solid floor that the Dabber came with.

For the Dabber we picked up some cumaru (Peruvian teak) for the floor, we found teak at the local builder's supply, sold as deck boards. On our Lugger we used cypress that came from the local cypress mill. You could also use 1x6 pressure treated pine, or possibly cedar or pine fence pickets. Teak is heavy and will not float. Cypress and pine will float, with the pine being the lightest. We chose teak because we will not have to finish it and I like the floor to be heavy and not rattle around. A bonus to the teak "deck board" is that the edge is already radiused, less work for me later. Pressure treated pine "5/4" deck boards are finished as well, like the deck boards in our pictures.

We use 1x6 dimensional boards because they line up pretty well with the width of the Dabber and Lugger cockpit. One "1x6" board gets us a board that is 3/4 inches thick and 5 1/2 inches wide. For the Dabber we needed 3 boards 9 feet long for the middle slats, and 4 more 8 foot boards for the outer slats. There was a moaning chair moment when I realized I needed the longer 9 foot boards for the middle, which required another hour and a half car trip to the big city. Luckily we can fit up to a 10 footer in our van, so no trailer was required.

Got the boards home and laid them out on the deck, which is handy because the deck boards are the same width. For the layout I use a full width board for the outside planks, as the middle board will be ripped lengthwise and cut again to make room for the centerboard trunk.

I used the old floor as a pattern. I flipped the old floor upside down and laid it carefully on the new boards so as not to disturb spacing. It is important to note that the new floor is UPSIDE DOWN as well at this point and we will be making our builder marks and note on the bottom, so don't be shy. I traced the perimeter of the old floor with a sharpie and carefully removed the old floor so as not to disturb board spacing. The next thing to do is take a straight edge and mark perpendicular lines across the board, being careful not to disturb spacing. These marks help you line the boards up at a later stage. I also marked each board's position, Port 1-4 and Starboard 1-4. This picture shows the board layout and the first port side board cut out with a jig saw. See how the boards are reversed? And look at the old floor pattern, see how it lines up with the deck planks underneath?

Ready to cut out the last outer plank. That outside board doesn't use up much of the plank, but we used the offcut to make the floor cleats (small cross boards underneath to hold the floor boards in position). The center plank gets cut to fore and aft length(s) to account for the centreplate trunk, then ripped for width to make fore and aft, port and starboard center boards. The forward center planks also get cut to allow clearance for the centreplate uphaul rigging. Now is the time to round over the cut edges of the boards if desired, I used a 1/8 inch roundover bit on a compact trim router.

Take all your offcut pieces of floor and cut them 1 1/2 inches wide, short pieces can be used on the end and longer pieces in the middle. We used a table saw to rip the boards. Lay the cleats out and mark their position. Now if you're lucky you may have the old boards to reference with the cleats on the bottom. If that is the case you can make a note of cleat spacing and any bevels on the ends of cleats that allow the floor to sit flush. There are bevels and lips around the bilge and centreplate trunk, so the cleats can not run all the way to the edge of the floor boards. If you have the boards you can assemble everything outside of the boat. If you don't have reference boards, you can assemble the boards inside the boat, being careful not to step on and unsupported end of a board. This is where the alignment marks and board numbering come into play, get all the boards aligned in their proper reversed spots before placing the cleats. Take a look at the pictures and put the cleats in approximately the same spots, 3 ahead of the centreplate trunk, 3 aft of the trunk and one abeam. Leave about a one inch gap on the ends of each cleat for clearance. Make sure to support the little end of the outer planks where you can.

I used #10 silicone bronze brass wood screws to attach the cleats, or stainless or coated deck screws, depending on how soon you want to replace them. Or clench nail the boards. The screws should be 1 1/4 inch in length. Laid the boards inside the boat upside down, on opposite side of where they will fit when finished. Set the spacing, then drilled a hole with a Fuller combination pilot hole and countersink bit. For hard woods you have to drill a pilot hole, for PT pine probably not. Then I attached cleats using a Frearson bit to drive the to silicone bronze screws. You can get square drive SB screws or star drive stainless as well.

Lugger Differences:

The Lugger floorboards have a few more bevels and floor bearer support cutouts, here is a MKII floorboard.

Plus there are MKI and MKII Luggers, which have different centerplate trunks.

MKI Centreplate trunk has external supports.

MKII centreplate trunk is smooth.

Floor support bevels.

Here is a MKII Lugger floorboard in a MKI Lugger. I like how the MKII outer plank is wider vs narrow, so we adapted and made the inner planks smaller for the new MKI floor. The MKII centreplate trunk is different, so we cut extra boards to fit around the centerboard case supports.

Here is a set of MKI Lugger floorboards I cut out of soft pine from the home improvement store. They cracked immediately, so I would suggest using something that costs a bit more. The MKI boards had the narrow outboard board, I like it to be wider. I cut the new set on the left from cypress, using a MKII floor as a pattern to get the wide outer board.

Traced the pattern with pencil and cut out with a jig saw.

Alternating screw pattern.

Cut narrow boards to fill the MKI centreplate gaps , assembled.

Drascombe Lugger MKII Floorboard Replacement
Pettigrews Lugger Floorboard Replacement